Arrive at Dunvegan.

Description of Dunvegan.

We were advised by some persons here to visit Rasay, in our way to Dunvegan, the seat of the Laird of Macleod.

Being informed that the Rev. Mr. Donald M'Queen was the most intelligent man in Sky, and having been favoured with a letter of introduction to him, by the learned Sir James Foulis, I sent it to him by an express, and requested he would meet us at Rasay; and at the same time enclosed a letter to the Laird of Macleod, informing him that we intended in a few days to have the honour of waiting on him at Dunvegan.

Macleod and Talisker sailed in a boat of Rasay's for Sconser, to take the shortest way to Dunvegan.

He said, 'let us go to Dunvegan to-morrow.'

It requires great abilities to conquer an army, but none to massacre it after it is conquered.' The weather this day was rather better than any that we had since we came to Dunvegan.

Those at Dunvegan, which were damp, Dr. Johnson called 'a sullen fuel.'

We had the musick of the bagpipe every day, at Armidale, Dunvegan, and Col. Dr. Johnson appeared fond of it, and used often to stand for some time with his ear close to the great drone.

I did not intend to say that you had personally made any cession of the rights of your house, or any acknowledgement of the superiority of M'Leod of Dunvegan.

I only designed to express what I thought generally admitted,that the house of Rasay allowed the superiority of the house of Dunvegan.

When Johnson visited Macleod at Dunvegan, he wrote to Mrs. Thrale:'Here, though poor Macleod had been left by his grandfather overwhelmed with debts, we had another exhibition of feudal hospitality.

'It is related that at Dunvegan Lady Macleod, having poured out for Dr. Johnson sixteen cups of tea, asked him if a small basin would not save him trouble, and be more agreeable.

[580] It has been said that she expressed considerable dissatisfaction at Dr. Johnson's rude behaviour at Dunvegan.

Scott writes:'When wind-bound at Dunvegan, Johnson's temper became most execrable, and beyond all endurance, save that of his guide.

'At Dunvegan I had tasted lotus, and was in danger of forgetting that I was ever to depart, till Mr. Boswell sagely reproached me with my sluggishness and softness.'

[640] Sir Walter Scott thus describes Dunvegan in 1814:'The whole castle occupies a precipitous mass of rock overhanging the lake, divided by two or three islands in that place, which form a snug little harbour under the walls.

He acknowledges Macleod of Dunvegan as his chief, though his ancestors have formerly disputed the pre-eminence.'

Rasay has written to Boswell an account of the injury done him by representing his house as subordinate to that of Dunvegan.

He has the full spirit of a feudal chief; and I was very ready to accept his invitation to Dunvegan.

On the 13th, travelling partly on horseback, where we could not row, and partly on foot, where we could not ride, we came to Dunvegan, which I have described already.

While we were at Dunvegan, the wind was high, and the rain violent, so that we were not able to put forth a boat to fish in the sea, or to visit the adjacent islands, which may be seen from the house; but we filled up the time, as we could, sometimes by talk, sometimes by reading.

We were eight days at Dunvegan, but we took the first opportunity

The breed was included in the first volume of the Kennel Club Stud Book, and the best among the early dogs were such as Mr. Pratt's Gillie and Dunvegan, Mr. D. W. Fyfe's Novelty, Mr. John Bowman's Dandie, and Mr. Macdona's Rook.

341; Miss Burney's account, iv. 426, n. 2; Macleods of Dunvegan Castle delighted with him, v. 208, n. 1; softened, iv.